How to choose foundation

I wrote this article for a job posting by Makeupgeek.com and thought I would share it with you. I haven't heard back from them yet about the job so you can still keep your fingers crossed for me :)
I did not include airbrush foundation in this article but I am planning to write a post on it in the future. Also coming up one about applying foundation, this is just about finding the one for you. Enjoy!

Choosing a foundation is kind of like finding Mr/Mrs Right: it seems impossible but when you eventually have it, you never want to let go. Fortunately, if you know a few things to look for, finding the perfect foundation is not that much the mission impossible, although be prepared for a little bit of hit and miss. So this is how you do it.

First of all, make sure you allow yourself plenty of time, this is a decision you really don't want to rush. When you set out on the hunt, remind yourself that you are not alone, there are sales people in every store who are there to help you, and they will if you let them. What I mean by that is communication is very important. A trained sales person at a make-up counter should be able to find out a lot about your skin just by looking at it but what they cannot do is read your mind. You will need different kinds of foundation for different occasions like work, a party or special occasions where photos will be taken (weddings for example or a prom). You also have your own preferences about how much coverage you want and how experienced you already are at applying your foundation. So speak up, experiment in the store and don't be afraid to say no if you don't like the smell, the feel, the consistency or the shade of the product. It's ok to try and not buy if you can't find what you are looking for.  Also, don't be embarrassed to mention what your budget is, it will help the assistant focus the search and will spare you from making up awkward excuses about a product you love but simply can't afford. When it seems you have finally found the One, it is a good idea to ask for a sample before buying so that you can test for any reaction you may have to it and also to double check the color as a lot of places don't have natural light in store.

Now that you know how to buy, let's see WHAT to buy. There are so many types, colors and prices, it's little wonder we feel lost when it comes to choosing just one or two. What you want is the right TYPE and the right COLOR for you. We are all different so what is great for your friend may not work for your skin.

Some generally useful information on TYPE

What type of foundation will be best for you depends on your skin type and the amount of coverage you want. It's not enough to know what your skin type is right now though.  As time goes by, our skin changes. You may have had oily, problematic skin in your teenage years leaving you with some scarring and slightly bigger pores on your cheeks. Even if your skin is dry now, if you use a dewy finish foundation (generally recommended for dry skin), it will not look flattering on you because it will accentuate the scars and the pores. So whatever the general recommendations, you have to keep other factors in mind, too. The gist of it is that you need to aim at normal skin and an even skin tone. The closer you are to this naturally, the easier your job.  If your skin is oily, mattify it to counteract, if it's dry, give it some shine. If you have a lot of redness, darker spots, scarring, choose a product to target these issues.

As far as coverage goes, for everyday use (school, work) the lighter the better. Why overload your almost perfect skin with a heavy full coverage foundation if you don't need to? For special occasions when you need your make-up to stay perfect for longer (party, a date), you will need more coverage. If there will be photos taken (a wedding, holiday celebrations), you want more coverage, too but what you don't want is light reflecting particles in your foundation. These are used in dewy/luminous-finish products, and although they can be very pretty in real life, because they reflect light, your face can come out looking like a lantern in pictures, especially if the photographer uses flash or there is a lot of artificial lightning. Matte will be the most flattering on anyone in pictures, so even if you have dry skin, go for it.

It also seems that there is a liquid foundation for almost everyone, and these tend to come in more shades too, just check the packaging for key words such as 'mattifying', 'dewy', 'luminous', etc., that will give you a clue about what kind of finish they give. Words as 'long', 'stay' and the kind indicate that the product is likely waterproof and stays on for longer, making it a good choice for a party or more humid climate. However, it also means that it's probably fuller coverage and a bit more difficult to apply because it dries really quickly. Maybe not the best choice if you are a beginner with foundation.

Mineral foundation is the big hit right now and it's recommended for every skin type. It is claimed to be produced from natural ingredients only, making it an especially good choice for sensitive skin, although you CAN be allergic to natural ingredients, so best to test first. It covers well and feels light on the skin, but can be pricey and it can be difficult to find the right shade if you have darker skin. Some also have reported that it makes dry skin look flaky (despite the claims of manufacturers) and if you apply too much it can look cakey, making it difficult to build up a full coverage.

There are now other, innovative formulas on the market too, like liquid to powder foundation that glides on like a liquid or cream foundation but dries to a powdery finish, stick foundations that come in a tube like a lipstick, making it easy to apply. Mousse foundations come in pots and now there is even roll-on foundation that you apply with a little roller just like painting your bedroom walls. Manufacturers come up with new ideas all the time, so if you like experimenting, keep an eye out for these. Downside is, these are usually limited to only one or just a few manufacturers so color choices are limited.

Choose well for your skin type

If you have normal skin (or very nearly normal) and not much to hide in terms of blemishes, scarring, pores, etc., chances are you will be fine with just a tinted moisturiser for everyday use. Use a corrector for the odd spot you want hidden and a sheer to medium coverage foundation for special occasions. Your skin may be drier in winter and oilier in summer, so keep this in mind when choosing a product. A rich tinted moisturiser will be very good in the winter but you will need something lighter for the summer season to avoid 'overfeeding' your skin as this can cause blemishes.

If you have oily skin go for a mattifying, lightweight formula (oil-free, water based) and stay away from the ones that claim to give you a dewy or velvety finish, as these will only emphasize your pores. Mineral or a simple compact powder foundation is also a good idea, as these can absorb access oil more easily.  A mousse foundation is very easy to apply, and feels really light on the skin with up to medium coverage. A full coverage formula (these are usually cream foundations) tends to stay on longer than light or medium coverage but always check the ingredients list. Serecite and kaolin clay will help absorb excess oil, zinc oxide is good for inflammation but stay away from bismuth oxychloride and dimenthicone which can clog your pores. Also avoid products with alcohol in them. As good as they feel in the short term, they will just make your skin oilier in the long run. If your skin is oily but doesn't have any blemishes you can actually get away with only applying some good quality powder and no foundation at all. If your skin tends to get really oily in your T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), it is a good idea to use facial blotting tissues during the day to stop your foundation from gliding off your face instead of adding more product on as this can look cakey.

For dry skin choose a rich, moisturizing foundation (the ingredient to look for is natural oils such as almond, rice bran, jojoba, etc oils) with dewy, satin or luminous finish. Dry skin tends to have few or no blemishes and almost invisible pores so light or medium coverage should be enough unless you are planning a night out with loads of sweaty dancing or the sort. If you have a lot of redness, use a thin layer of light green concealer under your foundation to counteract it and make sure you always moisturize well, as wrinkles generally appear sooner on dry skin. Liquid and cream foundations work really well, and you can also try mineral foundation applied with a wet brush but stay away from compact powder foundation no matter how convenient it looks. It will only make your skin look drier and flaky.  When applying make-up for photos where you need a matte finish, try liquid to powder foundation or a light mousse.

Combination skin is a tricky business. Most often it is oily in the T-Zone and normal or dry on the cheeks. If you have normal skin on your cheeks and an oilier T-Zone, it's best to choose a mattifying foundation and use some cream blush or highlighter on your cheeks to give them some healthy shine. If your cheeks are dry and your T-zone is just a little bit oily, go for a foundation for normal skin. If your cheeks are very dry and your T-Zone is very oily, the best you can do is use two different types. Make sure you blend them well and if possible buy the same brand to get the exact same shade.
      
As we age, we get wrinkles and our skin usually gets drier. For mature skin the general recommendation is to use a light formula with a dewy finish to give the skin back its glow. This will work well unless you have scarring, adult acne or large pores left behind on an ex-combination skin. Also, just because you are over 47 say, it doesn't mean you can't have oily skin, and if you do, dewy finish will do you no good. Also, as long as you only have fine lines, it's ok to get some shine from your foundation but deep wrinkles we don't want to advertise. So mature skin or no, if you have deep wrinkles or oily skin or scarring or large pores, a matte finish will work better. Nothing too heavy, mind. The rule 'more years, less make-up' applies to your foundation, too. Try a light liquid, mousse or mineral foundation or a tinted moisturizer. There are loads out there with anti-aging ingredients and some are designed to fill up wrinkles or stretch them out, giving you an instant ‘face-lift’, albeit temporary.

Sensitive or problematic skin brakes out easily and reacts badly to certain chemicals found in make-up by redness, blemishes or even itching. If you know what ingredients you are sensitive to, avoid them. Otherwise look for hypoallergenic products or brands that only use natural ingredients and don't contain perfumes. Never apply a full face of foundation without having tested the product on a smaller spot first and always make sure you cleanse your face gently but thoroughly every night and let it breathe while you sleep (this goes for everyone else, too but especially important for sensitive skin). Mineral make-up is the most often recommended for sensitive skin, so give it a go if you haven't yet. If you have adult acne, try avoiding dairy products for a month or so to see if you are sensitive to the proteins found in cow's milk.
      
Choosing the right COLOR

Don't let yourself be confused by the loads of different colors foundations come in when first choosing. You will have time to worry about the color once you have decided on what type you want. Getting a foundation in the exact color of your skin is really difficult and most of the time proves to be unnecessary. If your brows now have climbed to the top of your forehead in disbelief, let me explain. As our skin type changes during time, so does its color, and even more frequently. We all tend to be darker in summer and lighter in winter not to mention fake tans and solar beds. Even if you find the exact match to your skin, chances are, it will not be a perfect match in another couple of months. So the best to do probably is to get a lighter and a darker shade, both close to your skin tone and then mix them. This way, you can get an exact match every time you put your foundation on.

Bare it in mind though, that the tone of the colors needs to be perfect. It needs to be the same tone as your skin, only in lighter and darker shades. Most women have yellow based skin tone, the rest either pink or red based. Most brands have yellow and pink/red based foundations in several shades. If you can't decide which is which, take two foundations off the shelves, both light or both medium or both dark depending on your skin. (If you have fair skin, choose light colors, if dark, choose dark ones). Before trying them on your face, put them next to each other. One of them will likely look a little yellowish against the pinkish other one. Remember which is which and then test them on your face (not your wrist). One of them will look 'foreign'. If it's the pinkish one, you have yellow undertones and vica versa. Keep testing colors according to your skin tone until you find one that almost seems to vanish against your skin. The one that 'disappears' is the perfect match. If you have an almost perfect match, don't be afraid to get a lighter/darker shade of the same foundation and mix them in store to test.  Always aim to achieve a perfect match! Trying to change the tone or shade of your skin by applying non-matching foundation is a very bad idea, the result will look unnatural and never pretty. Don't forget, to doublecheck the color in natural light, too, and only buy when you are certain. You don't want a drawer full of bottles of foundation that you will never ever use.  If you really can’t decide, remember to ask the staff. Although if you hesitate too long they are likely to turn up and offer help without you asking. But you get my drift.
       
If choosing a foundation still seems a nightmare rather than an adventure and you prefer spending money to spending your time, there are companies out there specialising in custom making foundation, too.

All left to say now is good luck on the hunt! :)

What is my skin type?

'But you said it was going to be about makeup!' - you thinking? Well, it is.

The most important thing you need to know before you even start thinking about putting any makeup on (or even buying any) is your skin type as this determines what kind of products will or won't work for you. I know this may sound boring. Where is the creativity and the joy of colours in this? But believe me, it's important. Your skin is the canvas for your makeup and more importantly, it is what tells other people most about you. Its condition reflects your lifestyle, your age, even your diet, so caring for it the right way will make all the difference. In this first post, I will help you determine what your skin type is.

You might want to do this on a weekend morning (not after a night out by any means) when you don't want to put any makeup on and you don't need to go anywhere.
1. First, wash your face with just water. It is very important not to use any cleansing products when doing this, as these can affect how your skin 'behaves', giving you incorrect results.
2. Now wait at least an hour, two is even better. Try not to touch your face during this time to avoid transferring oil from your fingers to your face. Note if you feel any tightness and where you feel it, this will indicate dryness.
3. Take a tissue and press it on your face, but do not wipe. The tissue will absorb any access oil from your face and its pattern is important.
4. Look in the mirror and note what you see.

Normal skin doesn't feel tight or oily even after the two hours. It has an even tone, its pores are not or only barely visible, there is no redness or flakiness and apart from the odd blemish sometimes, it's not very problematic. Normal skin is what we all want but few have it, so if you do, consider yourself lucky.

Dry skin will feel tight all over (maybe more on some spots than others) soon after washing, its pores are invisible and it's prone to flakiness and redness. It hardly ever has blemishes (unless it's also sensitive, more about this later), but wrinkles appear on it earlier than on others.

Oily skin doesn't feel tight at all but will leave oil on your tissue. Some spots may be oilier than others but there are no dry patches at all. Pores are easily visible, some even large and blemishes appear quite often, especially if you skip cleansing at night. The easiest way to tell oily skin is by looking at it: it's shiny and not in a good way.

Combination skin is what most people have, it's a mix of the above three skin types. Let me introduce you to the T-zone if you don't know it yet. This is the area covering your forehead, nose and chin, the shape of the letter T, hence the name. Combination skin is oily in the T-Zone and dry or normal elsewhere.

Sensitive skin is not really a skin type, either of the above can also be sensitive. It reacts more readily to chemicals in cosmetics and to the changes of weather. It often has acne or blemishes, and it can become red or even itchy. Sensitive skin can be very difficult to deal with but I will give you some tips in a future post that might help a little. (Sorry, but it couldn't all fit in here.)

Now this was not difficult at all, was it? Good. If you have the feeling that this is too simple to be true, you are a wise person :) The thing is, that it's not this simple. Hormonal changes (all kinds be it natural or artificial), ageing and even the changing of seasons influence our skin a great deal and our skin type changes as a result. It is very important that you do not ignore these changes and choose your cosmetics and makeup to suit your skin in its current state otherwise you can introduce problems instead of treating them.

Any questions on the above or if you feel I missed to mention something, comments are very welcome.